Gaywool Dye Instructions

Gaywool dye is formulated specifically for raw or spun natural fibers. Gaywool Originals & Bush Blends are all-in-one acid dyes which have the acid component and the leveling agent essential to stabilize the dye bath at the correct ph level. The formulation includes the mordant and dye bath acidifier and thus includes all that is necessary to produce true to type color fast dyeing.  All dyeing of hand spun yarn should be done in skeins tied loosely in at least four places. It is also essential that they have been washed in a normal laundry detergent to sufficiently remove all traces of grease.

Gaywool Colors Oak, Coal, Nutmeg, Tomato


          Oak, Coal, Nutmeg, Tomato on 100% Suri Alpaca

In the first four minutes, 80% of the dyeing reaction takes place, consequently, it is most important to gently turn the fiber over at regular intervals or lift the fiber clear with a wooden spoon, drain liquid slightly and replace. Fiber then takes in a new mixture of dye and water thus keeping the dyeing even.

Basic Safety

  • Always wear gloves and a particle filter mask when handling dyes.
  • Turn off any fans and close nearby windows when mixing powder or crystal dyes.
  • Make sure your work area is well-ventilated; when cooking your dye baths, be sure to turn on vent fans and open a window.
  • Do not eat, drink or prepare food in your work area while you are preparing dyes.

DIRECTIONS FOR DYEING WITH GAYWOOL

Though I have not tried all, these are common techniques for dyeing with Gaywool Dyes with occasional notes of my own:

  1. Stove Top Method
  2. Steam Dyeing Method
  3. Microwave Method
  4. Random Dyeing Method
  5. Cold Water Dyeing Methods

1. Stove Top Method 

 

Dyeing Equipment.

dyeing fiber in dye pots with gaywool dye

Gaywool Original Colors Pumpkin and Plum

Dye Pot – Enamel or Steel
Spoons – Wooden or Plastic
Containers to Mix Dye
Heat Source – Gas Burner, Hotplate, Stove
Bucket

Weigh fiber and record weight.

  • Weigh dye or use a heaped dessert spoon as an appropriate measure.
  • Rate is half an ounce of dye (12-16gms)  to 3.5oz (100gms) fiber.
  • Wet fiber thoroughly with warm water using a little kitchen detergent.
  • Fill dye bath with enough water to sufficiently cover the fiber.
  • Dissolve dye in hot water and add to dyebath and stir.
  • Add fiber to dye bath, gradually increase the temperature to boil.
  • Gently move the fiber in the dye bath with spoon. Do not stir rapidly as this may cause felting.
  • After 30 minutes (less for paler shades) remove fiber from dye bath into bucket. Rinse in    warm water and dry.

gaywool dye lily

 

See more about Dyeing In A Dye Pot With Gaywool Dyes

See Suri Fiber that has been dyed Solid Colors with Gaywool Dye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gaywool Original Color Lily

2. Steam Dyeing Method

 

This method is recommended for fibers that are delicate to handle and have a tendency which requires a more careful approach when dyeing at hot temperatures.  The steam set method is ideal to use for slivers, tops, and roving, especially if they have a silk component. This method is also very good to use on the luxury protein fibers such as alpaca, angora or cashmere.

Rovings Drying in Sun

Gaywool Bush Blends Colors Nutmeg and Primrose

Dyeing Equipment.

Dye Pot – Stainless Steel or Enamel with secure lid for steaming. (Do not use a steamer that has been used for food preparation.)
Wire Rack – to fit in dye pot
Spoons – Wooden or Plastic
Containers to Mix Dye
Newspaper – preferably older than a week
Old Towel
Ice Cream Container
Rubber Gloves

 Hints.

Use smaller amount of diluted dye at the start. You can always make the fiber darker by adding more dye. Experiment and record your procedure if trying to replicate your dyeing application.

Try to handle the fiber as little as possible.

Method.

Weigh fiber, record weight, and then soak in warm water.

  • Wrap fiber in old towel by using a rolling pin or empty bottle and squeeze out excess water but keep moist.
  • Dilute required amount of dye in a small amount of boiling water/hot water. If the dye does not dissolve well use a fine strainer or nylon stocking and rub the dye until it is completely diluted.
  • Make sure you do not add too much water to the dye. You only need enough dye to pour over the fiber without too much excess.
  • Wet newspaper sheets, (does not need to be too thick but thick enough not to fall apart when steamed).
  • Prepare steamer.
  • Place fiber on top of newspaper and then gently pour diluted dye over the fiber. Alternatively you can place the fiber into an empty plastic ice cream container, pour the dye over the fiber then using a wooden or plastic spoon gently spread the dye through the fiber. Again, another alternative could be to use a syringe to inject the fiber with the dye. After this, take out the fiber (use gloved hands or two large spoons) and wrap in the newspaper.
  • Place newspaper onto rack or steamer pot. Bring steamer to the boil, then simmer between 2-3 hours, gently turning the newspaper every 30 minutes. Make sure you have good rubber gloves on when doing this.
  •  Check pot for water levels regularly and replace when required.
  • After the steaming period has completed, take out fiber and put it in an old towel and into the sink. Use a rolling pin to squeeze out excess dye.
  • Wash fiber gently in warm water and dry.

Note: If you want to experiment using a variegated (rainbow) method, instead of diluting the dye, just sprinkle the dye powder or dye colours over the moist fiber. Wrap in newspaper and steam. Alternatively you could try to wrap the fiber in a plastic bag after you have applied the dye, making sure you do not have too much liquid.

mixing gaywool dye for dye pot

                            Gaywool Dye Original Color Lucerne

When Gaywool Dyes came in plastic jars, one capful of dye per 4 ounces was easy to measure.  If you have any of these jars, save a few caps for easy measuring.

3. Microwave Dyeing Method

Dyeing Equipment.

Microwave
Plastic Container (ice cream container)
Containers to Mix Dye
Spoons (wooden, plastic or metal for mixing dye)
Rubber Gloves
Face Mask
Tongs
Microwave Safe Container & Lid – either glass, plastic or ceramic.
Water Jug or Bucket
Syringe

Exhaust Dyeing……Using one color or a combination of colors.

  • Weigh fiber/fabric and record weight.
  • Soak fiber in warm/hot water until it is thoroughly saturated. The longer you soak the fiber the better the migration of the dye through the fiber.
  • Measure the amount of dye to the weight of fiber. You can use a heaped dessert spoon as an approximate measure or use the rate of 12-16gms or half of an ounce of dye to 100gms/3.5oz fibre. Please note: these measurements are only recommendations. It is up to the individual dyer to adapt and record their own results to replicate and suit their own requirements.
  • Dilute the dye with a small amount of hot water (apx half cup) in a plastic cup or equivalent and stir until the dye and crystals dissolve, creating a dye liquid.
  • To your microwave safe container add enough water to cover the fiber. Add dissolved dye to water and stir thoroughly until dye liquid is evenly distributed.
  • Add wet fiber to container and gently move fiber around in container so that the fiber takes up the dye evenly. After you have done this a few times the fiber will be ready to heat.
  • Heat fiber on high at intervals of 3-5 minutes until the dye exhausts or is close to being exhausted. For the dye to evenly migrate into the fiber it is recommended to turn the fiber 2-3 times during the dyeing process.
  • Check water level and ensure that the fiber/fabric is still covered with water. It helps to pat down the fiber into the dye mixture when checking water level or turning over fiber/fabric.
  • After you are satisfied that the dye has absorbed sufficiently into the fiber/fabric leave the fiber in the container to cool (dye will continue to exhaust).
  • Rinse fiber in luke warm or cold water then hang to dry ( yarn ) or place on table/bench (fiber).
  • As heat settings on microwaves can vary considerably your microwave may be better suited to heat the fibre on a medium setting. It is up to you to discover the best setting which suits your microwave. To duplicate dyeing results it is recommended to record your times and settings.

4. Random Dyeing Method

 

Method

  •  Soak fiber for up to an hour in hot water.
  •  Place the soaked fiber into the container spreading it out evenly.
  •  Measure dye. If using two colors, allow for half of the dye quantities for each color that you would be using for exhaust dyeing.  Example: half a desert spoon for each color to 3.5oz/100gms fiber. Alternatively, 6-8 gms of each color.
  •  Mix each dye with half to three quarters of a cup of hot water to make your dye solution. Stir dye solution until crystals are dissolved.
  •  Use a syringe to inject the dye or pour dye solution over one end of the fiber & another color over the other end. Aim to leave some undyed fiber in between each color.
  •  Cover container with a microwave safe lid. Place a container of water in the microwave to prevent microwave atmosphere from  drying out. Spread the dye liquid through the fiber by patting down with a spoon.
  •  Heat on high at 2-3 minute intervals. Check moisture levels in container. If it looks too dry add a cup of water to container. Turn  over fiber and add more dye solution if required.
  •  When dyeing is complete take out container, gently take off lid & let fiber cool. When cooled take out fiber and rinse in either lukewarm or cool water and dry.

 Hints.

  •   Cover container with a lid which will let steam escape. If using plastic to cover your container ensuring that you make holes so the steam can escape.
  •   Place a separate container of water in to the microwave  to ensure the microwave atmosphere does not dry out.
  •   Use tongs or two wooden spoons to turn the fiber during dyeing intervals.
  •   If dyeing is uneven or has undyed patches this may be the result of either tying your yarn too tightly or not having your fiber adequately saturated with water. This could result in an insufficient amount of water/dye liquid migrating through the fiber.
  •   If fiber is too light in color with a substantial amount of dye still in the container you may not have heated the fiber for a long  enough period.
  •  If your fiber is the correct color you are aiming for, and you have excess dye left in the container, you may have used too much  dye. Please note that darker colors will not exhaust as well as lighter colors. Exhaustion rates will vary.
  •  You can try sprinkling dye randomly over your saturated fiber instead of using a diluted solution.
  •  Use the Gaywool color card to compare your dyeing results. Most yarns in the color card are dyed with a depth of shade between 1.5 – 2%, which are medium to deep shades. Experiment with different strengths of dyes to understand how each color can produce many shades.
  • Try mixing dyes to make your own new color.

 

Safety Issues.

  •  Do not use any metal containers or any other metal in your microwave.
  •  Handle hot containers with care. Make sure you let the steam escape from the container before lifting off the lid.
  •  Wear rubber gloves/oven mittens when handling hot containers and dye.
  •  Avoid acid fumes when lifting off lids.
  •  Use an exhaust fan if dyeing in your kitchen and have plenty of fresh air come into the dyeing area.
  •  Cover dyeing area such as tables and benches with newspapers or some other covering to avoid dye contamination.
  •  Keep dyes and all hot equipment out of the reach of children.

 

5. Cold Water Dyeing Method

 

      Gaywool Dye Original Colors Musk, Honeycomb, Mulberry

Cold Water Dyeing Using a Shallow Dye Bath

Equipment & Chemicals

Shallow dye bath, plastic, ceramic or metal (suggested size Length 15″ (400ml) , width 11″ (300ml), depth 6″ (150ml)

Rubber gloves
Buckets
Large spoons
Teaspoons.
Jug or kettle for hot water.
Mask.
Urea & dyes. (Urea is a garden fertilizer which can be obtained from garden supplies.)

Quick Method…..45min-1hour.

Weigh fiber & record weight.

Presoak fiber in warm water until the fiber is completely saturated.

Mix urea with boiling water to dissolve  granules completely.  Rate is 100g per 1 litre of water or ratio 1:10.

Add urea solution to fiber and soak for a minimum of 10 minutes.

Fill dye bath with enough  cold water to adequately cover the fiber.

Following directions on dye packet measure specific amount of dye and dissolve in boiling water. Mix dye solution by stirring with a spoon until crystals are completely dissolved.

Add dye to dye bath and stir dye liquid so that is evenly dispersed throughout the dye bath. Add urea mixture left over from soaking.

Add fiber to dye bath and with your gloved hands work the dye into the fiber (very important). Leave dye to sit for between 45mins – 1 hour.

Remove fiber and rinse in warm water and dry.

 

Comment.

You will have a good deal of dye residue remaing in the dyebath. We suggest that you use this by added more fiber to take up the remaining dye.  Most colors in the Gaywool originals color range and the deeper colors in the Gaywool Bush Blends would be in this category.

The pastel shades in both the Gaywool Originals & Bush Blends have much less dyestuff and we recommend when dyeing with these colors with this quick method, increase the quantity of dye by 15 to 20%. If you have a dyeing result which is not even we suggest that you add more dye to the dye bath and re-dye, not forgetting to work the dye into the fiber. Make sure that when dyeing skeins to tie loosely in three or four places. This will allow the dye liquid to evenly penetrate the fiber and prevent skeins from tangling.

The use of urea is optional but we do recommend using this as it assists in swelling the fiber to allow the dye to migrate and produce an even dyeing result.

 Please note that this quick cold water method will absorb less dye than the longer 24hr-48 hr method.  Some colors will not absorb the dye solution as well as others but most colors do work well considering the quick dyeing time and lack of heat. This dyeing system does have a flexibility which will enable the fiber craft person to accurately mix and repeat colors knowing that their dyeing results can be quick and easily achieved.

Alternatively … another quick method which only takes 30 – 45 min

Equipment

Light coloured plastic or stainless steel container or pot (I used a round container a little bigger than my plastic plate)
Chosen dyes
Measuring Spoon
Scale
Chosen Fiber
Gloves
Tongs
Plastic plate
Weight of some sort (I used a large jar filled with water)

Method

Wet wool and ensure entire skein is damp before wringing out loosely. Dilute the dye as per wool weight ratio in a small amount of hot water first to ensure the granules have dissolved. Add this to the cold water in your container. Stir.  Add fiber to the cold dye bath. Place plastic plate on top of wool and weight on top of plate to ensure the wool remains submerged for the entire dyeing time.

Leave for 30 – 45 min.

Remove wool from dye bath and rinse in cold water until water is clear. After this, with any dye session, I give the wool a quick hand wash using a cold water washing powder and then lay the skein or roving on wire racks to dry. For best results, dry in shade or overnight.

 

 

Cold Water Dyeing Using a Shallow Dyebath

 

Slower Method………………….   Dyeing time 24 to 48 hours 

.

Weigh fiber & record weight.

Presoak fiber in warm water until the fiber is completely saturated.

Mix urea with boiling water to dissolve  granules completely.  Rate is 100g per 1 litre of water or ratio 1:10.

Add urea solution to fiber & soak for a minimum of 10 minutes.

Fill dye bath with enough  cold water to adequately cover the fiber.

Following directions on dye packet measure specific amount of dye and dissolve in boiling water. Mix dye solution by stirring with a spoon until crystals are completely dissolved.

Add dye to dye bath and stir dye liquid so that is evenly dispersed throughout the dye bath. Add urea mixture left over from soaking.

Add fiber to dye bath and with your gloved hands work the dye into the fiber (very important).

Leave dye to sit for between 24 – 48 hours  in the sun if possible.

Remove fiber and rinse in  cold or warm water. This will depend on the color and the depth of shade you have used.

Hang to dry.

 

Comment.

With this cold water method, most Gaywool colors are colorfast, work very effectively, and have the same excellent results as the hot water methods.

Rainbow Dyeing

Raw fleeces may be dyed washed or unwashed. Place fleece in a container, fill with water 3/4 of the way (do not cover the fiber, or the dyes will run together).

While bringing the water close to a boil, sprinkle the dyes at random over the fleece, using compatible colors.

Gently poke the fleece into the water, do not stir, simmer for approximately 30 minutes. Several colors can be used together, e.g. Raspberry and Logwood, Cornflower and Indigo, or just one color using different strengths.

suri_alpaca_fiber_tiger_lily3

Yarn in skeins can also be dyed using the above directions.

For more muted colors, instead of sprinkling the powder, dilute the powder in boiling water first, then pour or spray.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gaywool Dyes are easy, dependable, colorfast, earth friendly, cost effective, and they come in so many different colors.  Inspired by the colors of Tasmania, the explanation of the Gaywool name is quite interesting.  It starts with some colorful early history and carriers through to the present day.  Be sure to read Gaywool Dyes Have a Colorful History

 

Be sure to see:

Two Color Immersion Dyed YarnDyeing Yarn with Kool Aid
How to Dye Speckled Yarn
Shibori Dying with Gaywool Dyes.

 

Check out these Online Dyeing Classes by Craftsy.

 

Professional Yarn Dyeing at Home Online Class  Next Steps in Yarn Dyeing Online Class

Gaywool Dyes Have a Colorful History

When it comes to dyeing alpaca, I love Gaywool Dyes!  From Australia,  no additives are required, the mordant and acidifier are already in the Gaywool dye formula.  They are easy, dependable, colorfast, earth friendly, cost effective, and they come in so many different colors.  Inspired by the colors of Tasmania, the explanation of the Gaywool name is quite interesting.  It starts with some colorful early history and carries through to the present day.

Gaywool…… a colorful History

gaywool dye color inspiration

Bay of Fires

Tasmanian Rain Forests

Tulips in the Northwest Coast

Early History

  • In 1807 John Youl, was sent as a layman  preacher to Tahiti in the Pacific islands to work as a missionary.  During this time many of his companions at the mission had come to an unfortunate end and found themselves in hot water with the native population.  Luckily for him, John Youl was not a very well built man. He was tall and skinny.  He had been observed by the natives shaving every morning with his trusty razor. The native Tahitians gave him a chance of survival if he could shave the chief’s beard and also the other men in the village without spilling any blood. This he managed to achieve and some time later, he made  his way to the new colony of New South Wales (Australia).
  • After settling in Sydney, NSW, John Youl became very good friends with Dr. Thomas Arndell.  Dr. Arndell was appointed as the assistant surgeon to the new settlement of NSW. He was one of seven assistant surgeons to Dr. White  on the first fleet to Australia with Governor Phillip.  He was later appointed as surgeon at Paramatta.  Because of this friendship, the name Arndell, was incorporated into John Youl’s family name.  In 1810,  John Youl married Jane Loder and they named their first son James Arndell Youl.
  • In 1815 John Youl was ordained as an Angligan priest.  In 1818 he was  commissioned by Earl Bathurst to become the first chaplain at Port Darymple, Northern Van Diemens Land (Tasmania). Reverend Youl and his family arrived in Van Diemens Land in 1818 to start work in the new Parish.
  •  James Arndell Youl became a successful grazier but is best remembered for introducing trout and salmon to Australasian waters.  Early attempts in 1841 and 1852 of transporting ova from England to Australia had failed and also shipments in 1860 and 1862 but finally in 1864, with the help of many people, thousands of ova were packed in moss and stored in the ship’s ice-vault, and the living ova arrived safely in Tasmania.

Foreward to the late 1960’s

  • The family connection to Dr. Arndell continued and in 1967 Gillian Arndel Youl (married name Thomas), a farmer and enthusiastic hand spinner of wool started a business specializing in breeding colored sheep for hand spinners and weavers.  To start her flock she initially purchased sheep from other farmers in the district.  She started her breeding program with 10 throwback corriedale ewes.  She then purchased a Border Leicester Ram in order to obtain a long fleece. Over a period of time she built her flock of sheep and her business and also started her own shop.  Her customers were far and wide and the wool was sent to many parts of Australia and also to the United States, Canada and Holland. Gill also became the first distributor of Ashford Spinning wheels in Tasmania.
  • With her family involved in the business her son Chris, suggested that there should be even more color in the business and with the assistance of an Industrial Chemist, Barry Harding from Coats Patons Launceston developed some easy to use, quality dyes for the home dyer. In 1974 the dyes were first packed and distributed in an old shearing shed on the family farm Gayfield, Longford Tasmania.  Years later the dyes were now being sent and distributed to many parts of the world including, the USA, Canada, United Kingdom and Japan.

The  name of the business came from the initials of Gillian Arndell Youl (GAY).  Her husband was Richard Field Thomas and the business was originally called Gayfield Wool and then later changed to Gaywool.

Gaywool Dyes continues to be in the family with the name of Arndell given to some family members.  Gill is now in her 80’s and her enthusiasm and energy for life is admired by her many family and friends.

Check out the original story published in Australian Womens Weekly 1976.

Gaywool Dyes at Alpaca Meadows

ALPACA MEADOWS

Alpaca Meadows offers the Gaywool Dye Originals …

…and the Gaywool Dye Bush Blends.

Gaywool Dye Instructions

Cleaning Suri Alpaca Fiber for Doll Wigs

I’ve been going to write a post for quite some time, maybe even do a video, on cleaning suri alpaca fiber for doll wigs.  This morning I ran across the following video on that very topic, and it is using some of our own suri fiber!  To be more specific, it is white fiber from an alpaca named Miss Miami.  Credit goes to Beth Alvarez, whose YouTube channel is Lomi’s Playground.  If you do a search for “alpaca” on her channel, you can see all the videos Beth has made on using alpaca for doll wigs.

In each of our pastures, there is a bare spot where our alpacas like to roll.  It must really feel good, but they do get very dusty.  The suri fiber we sell gets tumbled which helps get out much of the dust, then rinsed multiple times.  As you can see in the video, there still is some muddy water when washing it again.  Each step of the processing is a step towards cleaner fiber.

miss miami suri alpaca

This is our sweet Miss Miami, though we have sold her and she no longer lives on our farm. We were visiting our son in college at Miami University, when Miss Miami was born, hence the reason for her name!

suri alpaca fiber miss miami

And this is her beautiful fiber!

Be sure to check out our Suri Fiber, both in raw form and separated into locks for you.  Visit Lomi’s Playground to see more videos by Beth on using Suri Fiber for doll wigs!

 

Be sure to see:

Using Suri Fiber for Doll Hair
Tips for Purchasing Suri Fiber for Doll Hair
How to Make a Suri Alpaca Doll Wig
Doll Makers – Customer Gallery

 

 

 

Free Crochet Pattern – Simple Ridged Fingerless Mitts

This is a simple crochet pattern for fingerless mitts using our Snuggle Yarn.  The color pictured is called Knot of Naturals.  All but the foundation row uses half double crochets, with four different rows crocheted in the black loop only, creating texture in this simple design.  These fingerless mitts work up quickly in this bulky alpaca blend yarn.

SKILL LEVEL

Easy

HOOK

5.5 mm (H)

MATERIALS

Approximately 90 Yards of Snuggle Yarn

NOTES

Row 1 calls for a Foundation Single Crochet, or FSC.  Instead you may just chain 24 and slip stitch to join, making sure you don’t twist the chain, then do a row of single crochet into your foundation chain.  I prefer the FSC as it is a bit stretchier.  Below is a tutorial that will show you how.

How to Crochet Foundation Single Crochet (FSC)
How to Crochet Foundation Single Crochet (FSC)

DIRECTIONS

RIGHT MITT:

Row 1: Fsc 24. Join with sl st.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 5: Ch2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 7: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 8: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 9: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 10: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 12:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 13:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 14:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row15: Ch 2, hdc in the first 2 stitches, chain 3, skip 3, hdc in remaining stitches. Join with sl st.

Row 16:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 17:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 18:  Ch 2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

LEFT MITT:

Row 1: Fsc 24. Join with sl st.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 5: Ch2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 7: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 8: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 9: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 10: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 12:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 13:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 14:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row15: Ch 2, hdc in the first 19 stitches, chain 3, skip 3, hdc in remaining 2 stitches. Join with sl st.

Row 16:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 17:  Ch 2, hdc in each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

Row 18:  Ch 2, hdc in each blo of each st across, 24 hdc. Join with sl st.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

These gloves measure 8 inches (20.32cm) around and are 9 inches (22.86) in length and which should fit a medium to large size hand.  Pattern can be adjusted by adding or subtracting from foundation row.

Crochet Abbreviations
ch = chain
fsc = foundation single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)

To purchase these Simple Ridged Crochet Mitts in any of the Snuggle colors available, click here.  Interested in learning more Foundation Crochet Stitches?  Check out the Craftsy online class below.

Mastering Foundation Crochet Stitches Online Class
Mastering Foundation Crochet Stitches Online Class

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Learn How To Spin With A Drop Spindle

 I had learned how to spin on a spinning wheel, but not a drop spindle.  My daughter had figured out how to spin with a drop spindle, and my neighbor, and I’ve been to fiber festivals and seen kids walking around spindling.  It looked hard. Finally, when a group of gals wanted me to teach a drop spindling class, it was time for me to learn.  It takes some practice, and it takes some time.  Here are some resources that will help you on your journey into drop spindling.  It really is quite relaxing, therapeutic even, once you’ve learned.

Top Whorl Drop Spindle

First you will need a spindle.  The top whorl spindles pictured above are made by Amelia Garripoli of Ask The Bellwether, and her family.  They are well weighted, general purpose spindles.  Which Spindle Spins The Best is a very detailed article by Amelia in which she compares the different kinds of spindles.  There are various different kinds of spindles, some very beautiful made from exotic hardwoods, others painted with fun designs.  A spindle can also be as simple as a dowel rod, a CD, and a hook.  See How to Make a Drop Spindle to make your own.

There are three parts of a drop spindle, the shaft, the whorl, and the hook at the top of the shaft.  The shaft is basically what the drop spindle revolves around and it holds the yarn after twist has been applied to the fiber. The whorl acts as a weight to help the drop spindle continue to spin.  The hook, or sometimes a notch, in the shaft holds the yarn while the drop spindle is spinning.

Productive Spindling

Amelia has also written a book called Productive Spindling, which is a terrific resource for drop spindling.

alpaca roving

Next you will need some roving.  Some say you need to use wool when you are learning.  I learned with alpaca, so soft and nice to work with.  Might as well enjoy the fiber you’re spinning!  There is some Spinning Fiber Terminology that you might want to familiarize yourself with.  Drafting is a spinning term meaning to pull apart fibers to the thickness desired before introducing twist to create yarn.  Pre-drafting or splitting the roving is helpful, and makes the business of spinning go quicker.  3 Simple Steps to Preparing Fiber for Spinning explains and pictures how to prepare fiber for spinning.

Spinning with a drop spindle involves these easy steps:

Spin

Park

Pinch

Draft

Release

Wind On

 

 Drop Spindle Spinning: The Ultimate Guide to Drop Spindles from Interweave is a great article with more detailed instructions.

Alpaca Drop Spindle Kit

Our Drop Spindle Kit includes a top whorl drop spindle, six ounces of alpaca roving in three different colors, and illustrated instructions, a very nice beginner’s kit.

Spindling: Making Yarn From Fluff...to Stuff

Craftsy offers an online class called Spindling: Making Yarn From Fluff to Stuff   Taught by seasoned spindler Drucilla Pettibone, she will walk you through the yarn-making process, from carding natural fibers to creating stunning yarns in a variety of textures all on a portable drop spindle.  Drop spindling does take practice,  and learning anything new can be frustrating at the onset, but worth it once you master the skill.  Check out  Craftsy’s blog post on Tips and Troubleshooting for Drop Spindles .

One of the first things I wanted to learn after purchasing alpacas was how to spin.  Though a drop spindle is far less of an investment than a spinning wheel, I just knew I would like spinning, so I took the plunge and went straight to a spinning wheel.  It can be done.  Drop spindling is not a prerequisite to spinning on a wheel, though they are nice to travel with.  The essence of spinning is to twist the fiber so that it holds together in the form of yarn, whether it’s with a spindle or on a wheel.

Picnic in the Pasture

 

The group of gals that wanted to learn how to drop spin asked if they could bring a picnic.  They sat in the alpaca pasture and had a ball.  Be sure to check out Picnic in Alpaca Pasture is Highlight of Farm Tour.  I do teach a Drop Spindle Class here at the farm.  Click on the link to see when it might be scheduled.  You might also want to check out other Craftsy Online Spinning Classes.

How to Use Hand Cards

Thursdays in the Alpaca Barn

Thursday is my day in the alpaca barn, my turn to do farm chores.  Of course chores get done every day, but Thursday is my day, and today I think the alpacas are excited to see me!

When we first had alpacas, I did all the chores.  My husband was busy working a real job.  Years passed, life happened, and Matt found himself with time to do farm chores.  We took turns for awhile but before long, he was doing them every day.  This freed me up to develop and grow our alpaca business, process fiber, run the store, teach classes, work on the website, crochet, knit, spin, felt, weave.   It worked, for awhile.  He found that there just really isn’t much  stress in the barn, and that was very appealing to him.  I found that I missed caring for the alpacas.  So we’ve made some changes and now Thursday is my day … and I am loving it!

I love it most on sunny days, but that was not the case today.  It seems to have turned to mud season … ugh!

  

Certainly, not a job everyone would love, but I do.  Getting outside, caring for animals that count on me to bring them hay, feed, and fresh water is a privilege, really.  Clearing my mind of all except the task in front of me, is therapeutic, and a welcome relief from some of the tasks of running a business that weigh me down.

                                                                                                              

I don’t waste any time putting their feed out, spreading it out in numerous different feed dishes to keep the arguing (and stress level) over who eats first and who stands where to eat, to a minimum.  Yes, alpacas do spit (mostly at each other), and feeding time is when you will see it.  Hence, this is the reason the inside of our barn is covered with spit.

This is Mabelle, waiting patiently.   I like to put the alpacas out of the barn, then put their feed in their dishes, and then let them in.  This way I have a chance to touch each one, and they have a chance to learn to trust me enough to walk that close.

                                                                                                                                  

 

This is Savannah, Amelia, and Amelia’s sister, Annalise.  Sorry if there mouths are full, but it is feeding time.  I put out hay in different locations, both inside and out, in Rubbermaid wheelbarrows that can be moved to different places as needed.

     I start clean-up, working amongst the alpacas, wanting them to feel comfortable with me in their midst, and also because I just like being with them.  In the winter, chores are actually a bit easier because we layer fresh straw over the manure each day, a system called deep bedding.  The water and urine seep down to the lower layers of straw and the straw on top keeps the animals dry.  Find out more caring for Alpacas in Winter.  Did you know there actually is a Manure Management Handbook?  I discovered it just today.  It actually is quite interesting.

I add fresh water to the water troughs and heated buckets, that we switched to mid-winter, because the floating heater in the boys’ water trough gave out.  The chickens get feed and water.

 

Fitzgerald, our angora rabbit, and the latest addition to Alpaca Meadows, gets some leafy greens, and fresh water.  More about him later.

Chores don’t take that long, just depends on how much time I want to spend.  It’s very peaceful in the alpaca barn.  Sometimes I just enjoy sitting on a bale of straw watching the alpacas interact.  Caring for the animals on our farm, as well as the two that are inside, seeing that their simple needs are met, is the least I can do for them compared to the joy they give back to me.

I finish up my chores each week by working with one or two of the alpacas, on halter training, and going on walks out of the pasture back through our woods and hay field.  I worked with Martha today, three years old, but still resisting having a halter on and being led anywhere.  I’m making progress, but it takes time to build trust.  Today Amelia (left) and her sister Annalise go for a walk with me through the hay field.  They are somewhat tentative, but have each other so it’s not quite as scarey.  The walk back to the barn is at a much quicker pace.

Tour our Farm Store

Holiday Hours in the Farm Store are Wednesday thru Sunday, 12pm-5pm, through the end of the year.  Take a look at what you might see by clicking below.

 

Purchase Gift Certificates online for that hard-to-buy-for person on your list, to use in our Online Store.

Or purchase Gift Cards in our Farm Store.

Happy shopping!

 

 

Free Crochet Pattern – Squish Cowl

I love this pattern by Tamara Kelly that she calls her Squish Cowl.  She uses a special stitch called Split Bullion Stitch that involves yarning over six times which creates lots of gorgeous texture and squishiness!
Tamara’s pattern is FREE and can be found on her blog that she calls Moogly, by clicking here.

Squish Cowl - Snuggle Yarn

I chose our Snuggle Hand Dyed Yarn, which is a soft and lofty, bulky alpaca blend yarn, and used a 9.0 mm (M/N) crochet hook.  This color is called Knot of Naturals.  I love the effect that the shades of grey produce with this yarn and pattern.

Squish Cowl

SPECIAL STITCH

spbs: Split Bullion Stitch – Yo 6 times, insert hook in first indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 4 loops (5 loops remain on hook), yo, insert hook in next indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 7 loops on hook.

 There is a video tutorial on Tamara’s blog for both right and left hand folks demonstrating how to do this fun stitch.

squish_cowl (2)

 The finished measurements of my cowl were 42″ circumference (21″ laid flat) x 8″ wide which took 172 yards of the Snuggle Yarn.  To customize the length, begin with a starting chain in a multiple of 2, plus 1.

squish_cowl_3

 

Tamara Kelly is a Craftsy instructor and offers an online class you might be interested in called Quick & Easy Crochet Cowls (w/Tamara Kelly).

Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links.

 

Adult Coloring Books on LeisureArts.com

Free Crochet Pattern – Striped Triangular Shawl

Striped Triangular Shawl - Astral Yarn

SKILL LEVEL

Easy

HOOK

4.0 mm (G)

MATERIALS

Total of 512 Yards of Astral Yarn

This pattern is a good one for using up leftover yarn, which is what I was doing.  For this shawl, I used five different colors of our Astral Yarn.  If you happen to be using leftover yarn, use your smaller lengths of yarn first. The rows will get longer as you work, so you’ll want to save the yarns you have more of for later in the project.

The pattern instructions won’t tell you when to change yarn colors.  Change colors as you see fit, making sure to switch colors after completing a row so each stripe is a solid color.

NOTES

This shawl is worked from the center of the wingspan out and downward. Constructing it in this manner means that you can continue until the shawl is the desired size without making any modifications to the pattern.  Each row of the shawl increases by 4 stitches. There will be 1 stitch increased at each end and 2 stitches increased at the center point. Using locking ring markers to note the center 2 stitches will help prevent loosing your place. The pattern notes when to begin using them.

Striped Triangular Shawl - Astral Yarn

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

I crocheted 52 rows and the finished measurements were approximately 60 inches/ 152.4cm across the top, is 29 inches/ 73.66cm long from neck to point of triangle, and 76 inches/ 193cm around the bottom edge.

Striped Triangular Shawl - Astral Yarn

DIRECTIONS

Ch 4 loosely, 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 ch sts — 6 hdc.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st, [2 hdc in next st] twice, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st — 10 hdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc in next 3 sts, [2 hdc in next st] twice, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in last st — 14 hdc.

Place locking stitch markers on the center 2 sts. To do this begin counting at one edge and place marker on the 7th and 8th hdc st.

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st with stitch marker, replace marker on last st made, 2 hdc in next st with marker, replace marker on first st made, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last st — 18 hdc.

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st with stitch marker, replace marker on last st made, 2 hdc in next st with marker, replace marker on first st made, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last st — 18 hdc.

*Continue working Row 4 until shawl is desired measurements. Be careful to place the stitch markers on the second of each increased stitch or the center point will begin to veer off in the wrong direction.

Finishing
Fasten off and weave in ends.  I always like to block my projects for a nicer finish.  To do this wash or simply wet your shawl, roll in a towel to absorb excess moisture, then stretch your shawl out on a flat surface. Gently shape your shawl to your satisfaction and let dry.  Did your shawl come out slightly smaller than you anticipated? It is made out of natural fiber so you can block it to larger dimensions.

Striped Triangular Shawl - Astral Yarn

Crochet Abbreviations
* = a repeat in the pattern
[ ] = repeat instructions within brackets as many times as indicated
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
inc(‘d) = increase(d)
st(s) = stitch(es)

See more Shawl Patterns

 

 

Needle Felted Bears

I’ll be teaching two Needle Felted Bear Classes this weekend. For those of you attending, or trying this at home, I’ve put together a Pinterest Board with lots of inspiration for you!  There are bears of all shapes and sizes and colors and breeds, felted by many talented felting artists.  You can keep it simple but making a roundish shape, adding some bears, a face, and a little bear muzzle, or spend more time adding legs and feet, and feet pads, even clothing and accessories.


 

for those that live nearby, be sure to check out the classes at Alpaca Meadows.  For online classes, be sure and check out the wide selection of Craftsy classes available on our website.  You might also be interested in our Needle Felt An Animal Friend Kit by Back to Back Alpaca.



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